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If there is one thing the Spanish are deadly serious about, it is the quality of their serrano and iberico ham. The dried large hind legs of pigs dangle from the ceilings of bars and restaurants all over the country. They are the visual proof that the national culinary pride is alive and well. It is not without reason that a large piece of ham is still one of the most sought-after gifts in the annual Christmas package.
The tradition of cured ham goes back a long way and was initially always made in a mountainous area. Hence the name serrano, which is derived from the word sierra (mountain). The climatically favourable conditions in the mountains are now imitated all over Spain, although the best hams are still dried at higher altitudes.
The best of all the different types of ham is the jamon iberico, also called the pata negra (black leg). This ham comes from the Iberian black pig, which is probably descended from the wild boar. And of these animals, the jamon iberico de bellota is the most highly regarded in quality. These pigs are fattened in the autumn with acorns from the oak tree.
In addition to the location where the pigs live and their food, the curing process plays an important role in determining the quality of the hams.
First, the bones are rubbed with sea salt for a few days. After the salt has been removed, the hams are hung up to 'mature' for a few months to more than two years. Throughout the process, the temperature, which must be increased slowly, and the humidity (not too dry) are carefully monitored. 'Sealing' the meat is necessary for the maturation and has the added advantage of preventing swarms of flies from coming to it.
Ultra-thin slices of the ham are on the menu in almost every tapas bar. Many who taste it for the first time have since turned their noses up at a simple slice of ham. A staunch Serrano ham lover once described the difference in taste between long-matured ham and average ham as the difference between 'heavenly delicious and as boring as dishwater'.
